Deep Dive into Calcutta’s Culinary Charm with Rohini Kejriwal
Image of Rohini by Isaac Nico
Introducing Deep Dive, our latest content series where we ask creative women about their areas of expertise in the destinations that they know best. Come along for the ride as we dive deep into the world’s most exciting destinations through music, food, fashion, design, and more.
Rohini Kejriwal is a freelance writer, illustrator and curator based in Bangalore. She is also the founder of The Alipore Post, a weekly newsletter on art, poetry and creativity, and recently co-produced an Indian food anthology titled Memories on a Plate. We caught up with Rohini to learn more about her work, where she finds her inspiration, and the culinary scene in her home city of Calcutta.
We would love to hear more about your work and what you do.
I’m a woman of too many interests and driven by curiosity and a sense of play through life and work. My background is in journalism, and I’ve worked in both print and digital as a writer. I’m also a poet, artist and photographer, not defined by any one style or genre. I run The Alipore Post, a newsletter and online/offline playground through which I explore art, poetry, art direction, bookmaking, zines and a whole range of projects (both in silos and collaboration with artists and storytellers from the community).
You recently put together an Indian food anthology - what was the inspiration behind it?
Memories on a Plate came about because my collaborator, (Shruti Taneja from Nivaala) and I felt the need for a collection of stories, essays, art, recipes, poetry and photography from Indian kitchens that capture food memories. I think the pandemic made cooks out of an entire generation of Indians, including myself, who were cut off from their families, and had to enter the kitchen from a lens of survival and curiosity. There are enough recipe books out there, which can often be daunting. But as human beings, we all have certain foods we love and hate, and we all have memories associated with specific smells and tastes. The book became a way for us to explore the emotional spectrum around food, memory and the sense of home. An ode to those who have fed and nourished us.
From Memories on a Plate by Vinay Ganesh
For someone who has never visited Calcutta, how would you describe the culinary culture?
It’s diverse and timeless! There’s something truly incredible about how the classic restaurants in Calcutta have held onto specific flavours in a way that the dishes still taste the same, decades later. There’s an old-world charm to the pubs and restaurants on Park Street, like Bar B-Q or Trinca’s, and one might find nostalgic tunes being performed by the local cover band if you’re lucky. There’s street food in every corner, for every price point, ensuring that no one goes hungry, even if they have 20 rupees in their wallet. There’s a strong sense of cultural identity and regional celebration, with an assortment of eateries serving traditional dishes, be it Bengali, North Indian, Gujarati, Tibetan, or Anglo-Indian cuisine.
Selling street food in Calcutta, courtesy of Rohini
What’s exciting you about the current food scene?
As someone who visits Calcutta every few months, I still choose to revisit my favorite haunts and try the exact same dishes, so much so that we don’t even ask for the menu. But in my last few visits, I’ve been excited to see a burst of new cafes and restaurants opening up, many of which are seriously delicious and often located in old bungalows that carry with them stories of the past. There’s also a surge of cloud kitchens (a delivery-only restaurant that has no physical space for dine-in which is quite a common trend in India). A few recent favorites are:
To Die For, a fine dining curated meal by a Le Cordon Bleu chef, who shared an essay for Memories on a Plate
Sienna Cafe, a quaint little cafe shop that celebrates local ingredients and crafts
Motherland Cafe, my new favorite cafe in town. Everything is just perfect. Their Romagna Tortellini pasta is just mmmm.
Motherland Cafe, courtesy of Rohini
What off-the-radar gems should we know about?
Anamika’s Rolls, a street cart that serves the most glorious rolls (the onion roll for
vegetarians is a must-try)
Sikkim House, which serves up hot and juicy momos and other Tibetan fare
Kookie Jar, a patisserie that’s been around since 1985 and has the most incredible chocolate boats and divine cakes
Bar-B-Q, my go-to place for Chinese food in Calcutta since I was a kid. The Chinese salad there is a must-have.
As someone who is very tapped into the arts through their work, where do you find creative inspiration?
Home is comforting, though it’s always rewarding to step out and feel inspired by the city itself. I love the Windows of Calcutta so much that I made a page on it. I love the warm reds and blues and yellows all around the City of Joy. I’ve visited studios run by young independent artists, and always enjoy visiting whatever show is on at Experimenter Gallery (they have two different galleries). I used to enjoy going for gigs once upon a time, but I’m much happier stepping out to look at the colourful city lights and neon art in every nook and corner during the festivals (and there are so many of those!). There are also many beautiful textiles and a particular stitch called ‘kantha’ which I’m obsessed with. My mother’s a designer, and I love visiting the textile shops all around the city when I’m home. Other spots include:
The Agri-Horticultural Society of India. I’ve grown up walking in that park, foraging for flowers and I still adore going there with my Mum or nieces.
The Mullick Ghat Flower Market, a gorgeous wholesale flower market under Calcutta’s famous Howrah Bridge by the river. It’s a sight for sore eyes, and being the curator of a flower lovers page called Hoovu Finds, it’s an essential excursion that makes me feel at home (and the flowers are at dirt cheap prices).
