Written by Kayla Doris

If you’re looking for a city that challenges any preconceived notions of Thailand, you’ve found your answer in Chiang Mai. In a country most commonly associated with islands, backpackers, elephants, and tuk-tuks, Thailand’s Northern capital offers something different: an urban destination that has quietly emerged as a hub for contemporary art and design. Though it has a long history of artisan heritage and communities, a new generation of Thai creatives is credited with ushering in a craft renaissance. “Since the pandemic, we have seen the contemporary design community of Chiang Mai grow in unprecedented ways,” says Robert Sukrachand, founder of design studio Pern. “The slowdown in 2020 allowed designers from both outside and within Chiang Mai to converge in our small city and individually establish and grow their creative practices. There is a growing energy here in the fields of contemporary craft, textiles, ceramics, and architecture, and I'm proud to be a part of this community.” Visitors can take part in craft workshops, discover exciting design brands, and explore galleries and studios, all while enjoying the traditional parts of Thailand that you know and love (we can’t deny that temples, tuk tuks, and elephants are still part of its charm). Local resident and founder of Kalm Village, Achariyar Rojanapirom, summed up what makes the city such a great place to visit:

“Chiang Mai for me is a truly magical place, rich in unique cultures, history, and beautiful mountains. With a history spanning over 700 years, it was once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom and only became officially part of Siam (now Thailand) less than a century ago. As a result, the city is filled with remnants and strong traces of its historical past at every turn. Personally, I find it incredibly special to be surrounded by such history while witnessing the integration of contemporary culture throughout the city. It offers the perfect balance of big-city convenience and small-town charm, rich in culture, supportive communities and easy access to nature.”

We’ve collaborated with local creatives and experts, Robert Sukrachand—founder of design studio Pern, Achariyar Rojanapirom—co founder of Kalm Village, and Lucie Grace—travel journalist, to curate a list of insider recommendations for eating, drinking, shopping, and sightseeing your way through the city. We’ve also included tips from ECT members, Marilyn Z. and Michal O. .

Eat

“I am not usually one to chase Michelin-star tasting menus around the globe, but when a chef pours their passion into their craft and literally rolls up their sleeves to serve their guests, I’m in,” says ECT member Marilyn Zapf. “For a taste of the artisanal influences of the region, head to Blackitch, an intimate, family-run restaurant in the trendy Nimman neighborhood. Chef Phanuphon Black Bulsuwan transforms local and seasonal ingredients, often through his own fermentations, into a memorable dining experience.”

Also included in the guide:

• Sustainable seafood served in innovative ways from an intimate venue⁠

• Where to go for beautiful dinner setting: a 130-year-old mansion restored by local craftsmen

• The best spots to try kaow soi or khao soi, Chiang Mai’s signature dish

Shop

Browse artisan-made lighting and home decor at Pern. The design brand works between New York and Chiang Mai, partnering with artisan communities in Thailand and designers in the US to create one-of-a-kind contemporary interior pieces. The pieces include lampshades made by the last remaining village in Thailand practising an ancient form of brass casting, and sconces made by a marble workshop in Saraburi. Pern is currently in the process of opening a studio, showroom, residency apartment, and rooftop to host special events. “Right now, we're open for studio visits anytime by appointment while the renovations are still in progress. Our studio is located in the Chang Moi neighborhood in the center of the city,” says founder Robert Sukrachand. Items can be shipped internationally and for U.S. residents may also be able to be fulfilled by the New York center.

Also included in the guide:

• Graffiti-adorned t-shirts, slogan caps, and crochet bucket hats in a fun, locally-curated boutique

• A bookstore and coffee shop with beatnik Greenwich village vibes

Do

Spend an afternoon at Kalm Village, an art, craft, and culture hub located in the heart of the Old City. With a mission to foster collaboration across different disciplines, generations, communities, and Asian cultures, the space offers individuals the chance to explore architecture, art, and design through exhibitions, shops, workshops, and events. The venue is stunning and is made up of eight separate Thai buildings that play host to different disciplines; in one building you’ll discover an ikat sarong and silk textiles archive, while the others include a library, a gallery, and a lifestyle store that sells clothing and home goods, designed in-house with artisans from Thailand and abroad. With daily activities, a coffee house, and a cozy restaurant, be sure to leave enough room in your itinerary to stay here a while.

Also included in the guide:

• A cultural center located in an old ice factory that offers regular creative events and workshops

•  “The best gallery for contemporary art in town” according to a local insider

• A network of artist studios featuring experiential DIY workshops, live music, cafes, and galleries

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