Metohi Kindelis’ Field Notes on Western Crete
Field Notes are firsthand travel recommendations for and by our ECT Clubhouse members. Get the lowdown on destinations across the globe from travelers and locals alike. This week, Danai Kindeli, owner of farmhouse Metohi Kindelis shares her insider tips for Western Crete.
Crete is my birthplace and my chosen home since my 30s after years abroad. It is an intense place with lots of contrasts! Kind and deeply hospitable but also often harsh and stubor proud people. Mesmerizing landscapes and divine waters but also ugly neighborhoods and big resorts. Fresh local ingredients that make a unique healthy cuisine and interesting wines made of indigenous varieties. An impressive flora with thousand indigenous plants, mountains and coasts, museums and archaeological sites...There are really endless things to do, see and eat...Chania, the second biggest city of the island at its westernmost end is my hometown and the place for which I will be sharing some highlights.
I returned to Chania to take over our family estate Metohi Kindelis, a farm hotel with three guesthouses, that has progressively become an extension of myself. I have been running it for a decade now and have been able to observe some common misconceptions and mistakes around planning a trip to Crete. I am sharing a few of those below hoping they will help future travelers.
Eat
Salis: I love a meal at Salis, gazing at the Venetian harbour while enjoying fresh food and wine from their awarded wine list! They cook local dishes with a twist, with vegetables they grow and ingredients sourced locally. My tip is to order lots of appetizers instead of main dishes to savour as many flavors as possible, such as the roasted eggplant, the delicious tarama, the deconstructed pastitsio with truffle and many more.
Other recommendations shared: A Mexican gastrotaverna in a quiet residential neighborhood that bridges the culinary worlds of Crete and Oaxaca, a traditional taverna overlooking the sea, plus the local dishes you should try (and the dishes you should avoid). Head to the Clubhouse for the details.
Drink
Maimi: I love cocktails and bites at Maiami, the art studio and brasserie of artist Alexandra Manousakis. Everything here is curated by Alexandra, from the beautiful large space set by the water, filled with ceramics and color, to the hearty, funky food and stylish cocktails. Overall it is the perfect spot for an easy and fun evening with friends.
Do
Aradena Gorge: In Chania region, we have numerous gorges. The most famous is Samaria where you can enjoy long or shorter hikes admiring the landscape and local goat species. I like Aradena more as it is shorter and does not require a full day! More importantly, it ends at the little bay of Marmara, which means marble in Greek, as the beach is surrounded by marble rocks.
Other recommendations shared: Traditional villages to explore, an ancient city, plus pro tips on the best time to visit, how to get around, how many days you need to explore, and tips to experience Crete like a local.
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