The El Camino Travel Guide to Mumbai, India
Written by Kayla Doris
“All cities wake up differently,” says ECT India Expert, Anil Pathak. “What I always find exciting about Mumbai is watching the city come to life. You’ll see vegetable vendors setting up shops on the side of the street, newspaper delivery boys sorting out papers in multiple languages, old Irani bakeries where the smell of fresh bread wafts out, and people pouring in from the railway station where they'll stop for a cup of chai and conversation. Mumbai's excitement comes from the vibrancy and energy that is flowing through the city. This is where all the action happens.”
Once the city wakes, it never really stops. From early-morning stock traders to late-night street food vendors, the energy in Mumbai is constant. As the commercial capital of the country, the urban metropolis is often referred to as the City of Dreams due to its career opportunities in finance, media, tech and film (it’s the heart of the Bollywood film industry). It’s the reason why it’s home to such a large and diverse population of almost 21 million people. For travelers, Mumbai offers the chance to experience the vast spectrum only India can provide. There’s the modern history and colonial influences left by the Portuguese and the British, and then there’s the hipster hoods full of new food concepts, quirky shops, buzzing nightlife, and art-filled spaces. You can enjoy both the cosmopolitan, international lifestyle and the city's rich heritage, seen in its age-old markets, traditional Parsi cafés, and indigenous Koli community. There is wealth and luxury, but you’ll also likely witness informal slum settlements (though as Anil points out, these communities are filled with entrepreneurial spirit and people actively creating opportunities for themselves). “There are a lot of quirky things about Mumbai,” says Anil. “Literary connections, unique areas like Bandra, the Catholic quarter with a big East Indian influence, and many different religions which people don’t often realise.” All this to say, Mumbai is a city of many layers—complex, diverse, and impossible to fully grasp in just one visit.
We’ve worked with ECT India Experts, Anil Pathak and Apeksha Gogoi from luxury travel specialists, Peirce & Leslie, to cover the best way to experience this whirlwind city. We’ve also included tips from local residents and experts, Aditi Dugar—director and cofounder of Masque and Urban Gourmet India, Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari—husband-wife chef duo and founders of Kari Apla, and Imrun Sethi and Guneet Singh—siblings and founders of boutique hotel, The Kin.
Eat
Sample the city’s most innovative and experimental food at Masque. The fine dining venue is nestled within one of Mumbai’s old textile mills in Mahalaxmi with sleek, minimalist, and industrial-chic interiors. As an ingredients-driven restaurant, the team collaborates with farmers, foragers, and regional producers to curate unique dishes that showcase India's diverse culinary heritage. The result is a riot of modern Indian flavours in a 10-course chef’s tasting menu that changes with each season. Former items on the menu have included breadfruit ‘kebab’ with crunchy moong dal crust and saffron flatbread, water chestnut and cactus salad with fennel flowers, and bhutta chai + charred corn chaat. You won’t be disappointed with your visit.
For a more casual dinner, explore the flavors of Deccan and coastal India at Kari Apla, where you can try traditional recipes inspired by the chefs' childhoods. Founded by husband-wife chef duo Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari, Kari Apla is an extension of their multicultural upbringing. (Mathew’s roots trace back to Kerala’s Malabar Coast and Syrian Christian traditions, while Ebaani’s lineage spans Maharashtra, Goa, Andhra Pradesh, and Chennai.) We asked the chefs to recommend the must-try dishes on the menu—here’s what they suggest ordering: Avocado thecha and batata papad (a classic Maharashtrian spiced condiment transformed into a guac-and-chip-style appetizer), choriz pulao with fried egg and pickled vegetables, haleem with homemade pav, mutton cutlets, and finish with the warm banana bread with filter coffee ice cream. Find it in Khar West.
Also included in the guide:
An old Portuguese bungalow serving chai and coffee from one of the city’s coolest neighborhoods
Locally-recommended spots to try a South Indian breakfast
A “seafood haven” that’s always bustling
Image credit: Two Extra Lives
Stay
Check into one of the city’s newest openings, The Kin, a 15-room design-forward boutique hotel centrally located in the heart of Prabhadevi. Launched by siblings Imrun Sethi and Guneet Singh, the design ethos aims to offer a maximalist experience while utilizing minimal space. Rooms and corridors have been brought to life with terrazzo floors, whimsical fabrics, and an eclectic mix of art and sculptures. Downstairs, you can shop for souvenirs in the beautifully-curated concept store and enjoy dining in Terttulia, a modern European bistro and restobar.
Also included in the guide:
An anti-chain luxury hotel where social responsibility comes first
The best hotels in the city that are raved about for their personalized service, according to ECT India Experts
Image credit: Masque
Image credit:Kari Apla
Shop
Head to multi-designer, concept store, Two Extra Lives, for planet-friendly pieces where profits go towards small communities and villages in different parts of India. The aptly named store is dedicated to giving rare things of beauty an extra life, by selling highly curated vintage items that have been handpicked from various locations around the world. Pieces are available for both renting and buying. Find the store housed in a refurbished vintage bungalow in Bandra West.
Also included in the guide:
Gorgeous artisanal pieces made from handwoven Kala cotton, sustainable denim, and repurposed fabrics
Stunning designer pieces in a 19th-century church
Where to shop local spices and snacks to take home with you
Image credit: The Kin
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