Traveling responsibly in Mongolia with Jessica Brooks
Introducing Deep Dive, our latest content series where we ask creative women about their areas of expertise in the destinations that they know best. Come along for the ride as we dive deep into the world’s most exciting destinations through music, food, fashion, design, and more.
We sat down with Jessica Brooks, founder of Eternal Landscapes, to dive deep into responsible travel in Mongolia. As a destination that has seen a surge in popularity, we wanted to hear about the work that Jessica does to drive positive social change in Mongolia, and discover how we can minimize our footprint when we travel.
Tell us about the work you do in Mongolia.
Eternal Landscapes is a social enterprise that uses tourism to drive positive social change in Mongolia. My business partner, Turuu, is Mongolian and I previously worked as a guide there for four years until I realized that I wasn’t contributing to the economy as much as I could. We set up EL in 2010 with the idea of ‘if we are going to do this, we want this to benefit as many people as possible.’ We started by employing female guides and then realized it needed to go deeper than employment, so began to offer informal training during the low season months to help them develop their skills, confidence, and knowledge, and it really worked—we saw those skills put to place outside of their professional lives too.
Another challenge we faced was finding accommodation—a majority of tourist ger camps (traditional yurt-like tents) are privately owned so they don’t put much money back into the economy. There isn't as much of a ripple effect in the local community. We knew that there were herding families who wanted to be supported by tourism but didn’t know how they could find guests, so we drove across the country looking in different provinces and finding ways that we could incorporate families and homestays into our itineraries.
The Eternal Landscapes team. Image source.
And you also provide employment to men who would otherwise struggle with opportunities too?
Yes, there’s a lot of pressure on the men as there is still a macho culture. A lot of them wouldn’t be employed because they don’t speak English or they haven’t studied abroad, however they are skilled mechanics and drivers so we hire these men. We also work with projects that support the local environment and see how we can incorporate them into the itineraries too. Everything we do aims to celebrate Mongolian culture and incorporate what is Mongolian rather than a Western idea of what Mongolia is so that we can break down those stereotypes.
What would you say some of those stereotypes are?
I think many believe that the majority of the population lives in this sparse country that hasn’t changed since the beginning of time (however 50% of the country lives in the capital city, Ulaanbaatar). They just want to see reindeer, eagles, and Bökh wrestling. But actually it’s a very modern country, and if you’re just coming for the stereotypical activities, then you miss out on all of that. Genghis Khan brought knowledge, skills, and culture from other countries, and Mongolians used this knowledge to adapt and strengthen who they are. Yes, they do have a traditional way of life, but it also has a population who are very adaptable and embrace modern life. It’s a young country too and these youngsters have dreams and ambitions way beyond living in a ger in the middle of the countryside.
Ulaanbaatar by duku. Fill on Unsplash
Tourism is growing rapidly in Mongolia. Do you have any concerns about that?
It’s not the volume that worries me, but the seasonality. Right now the majority of travelers are visiting between May and September. Not only does that make it a hard way of life by having this extreme form of seasonal tourism, but it also causes concerns about the impact on the land and how that is (or isn’t) being communicated to travelers. For example, tourists arrive to do road trips without being aware that there are very very few public toilets. Human waste and discarded toilet paper can significantly impact wilderness experiences and have environmental impacts. (If you do find yourself in this situation, dig a ‘cathole’ of six to eight inches deep to bury the waste. It helps with decomposition because although faeces are organic waste they do not rot down quickly in Mongolia due to the latitude and altitude).
There’s also concerns about the strain on its freshwater supply. Mongolia is a water-stressed region and tourism is a major user of water in areas where water is scarce.(During peak season, the local sewage facilities can struggle to cope with the influx of human waste. We are not overly comfortable with the fact that local Mongolians do not have access to the flush facilities provided by a majority of ger camps.) Lastly, the big travel companies are just creating one big tourism circuit meaning that there’s a big concentration of tourism in the same areas, so tourism dollars aren’t reaching those who live in the very rural areas.
How can we be sure to travel responsibly if visiting Mongolia?
Try visiting in the low season so that you can contribute to a year-round economy. (Take a look at our low-season adventures here.)
Look into the physical impacts of tourism in Mongolia, but equally important is looking into cultural issues too. Research how to visit a herding family respectfully—many tourists show up unannounced expecting Mongolian hospitality, without thinking about how it can disrupt traditional practices and affect their livelihoods and lifestyles. Learn what the rules are if you’re staying in a ger. (Read Jess’s notes on this here.)
Whichever companies you choose while you’re there, be sure to look into their economic, cultural, and environmental impact.
Image taken by Eternal Landscape guest @quaegebeurannelies. Source.
What are some of your top recommendations while visiting to tap into the culture and support local businesses?
Do - The Erdenesiin Khuree Mongolian Calligraphy Center in Kharkhorin (the ancient capital of the Mongol Empire, 350km from Ulaanbaatar) promotes Mongol bichig - the traditional Mongolian script. This nonprofit association is dedicated to traditional Mongolian arts and calligraphy. In addition, the center wants to be a window for other forms of art related to traditional Mongolian culture and to become a vector of economic development for one of the most important historical tourist destinations in Mongolia. In doing so, they hope to contribute to reducing the tide of rural-to-urban migration.
Do/Shop - The Mongolian Quilting Center in Ulaanbaatar was established to make a difference in the lives of disadvantaged and unemployed women in Mongolia. Women supported by the project are trained in the art of quilting, textiles, and embroidery and use their skills to generate income for their families by crafting products to sell. Not only do the women make everyday items such as tote bags and tablecloths but also individual pieces of fabric artwork made from discarded and recycled material such as their stunning quilts which they sell from their workshop/shop in Ulaanbaatar.
Drink - Music is deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Mongolia, celebrated for its unique traditional instruments, notably the horse head fiddle. However, the Fat Cat Jazz Club in Ulaanbaatar offers a different perspective on the Mongolian music scene. Tucked away in an intimate, underground setting, this club is a vibrant showcase of local musicians. These artists masterfully merge traditional Mongolian melodies with modern jazz rhythms, creating an innovative and captivating musical experience that both honors heritage and embraces contemporary styles.
Where should we go to eat?
Mongolia, traditionally known for its meat-centric cuisine, is experiencing a quiet culinary revolution with the emergence of new local eateries championing plant-based dining. These establishments are not only offering vegan and vegetarian options but are also creatively integrating local produce into their dishes, skillfully blending international and Mongolian flavors. While the food landscape is ever-evolving, two of our current favorites are Agnista and The Oneness Fountain Heart Vegetarian Café.
