Eating through Taiwan’s Food Capital with Jolyn Chen
Introducing Deep Dive, our latest content series where we ask creative women about their areas of expertise in the destinations that they know best. Come along for the ride as we dive deep into the world’s most exciting destinations through music, food, fashion, design, and more.
We caught up with Jolyn Chen, co-owner of Xiao Ye, a neighborhood restaurant in Portland, Oregon that has been making waves with its one-of–a-kind concept. Championing the tastes of their childhood, Xiao Ye celebrates food from the tables of first-generation American kids. As a hospitality, food, and design expert, we asked Jolyn to take us on a deep dive into one of her favorite foodie cities, Tainan, Taiwan.
Tell us about your connection to Taiwanese food.
As a first-gen Taiwanese-American, I grew up eating Taiwanese food at home in Hacienda Heights, California. It’s where a lot of East Asian immigrants landed in the late 80s and early 90s, so I believe the area has one of the biggest populations of Taiwanese in the States. Being around that community, you get to have authentic Taiwanese food outside of your household too.
How has that influenced your restaurant?
When it comes to our restaurant, Xiao Ye, we have some influences through the tastes and flavors but it isn’t authentic Taiwanese food—the aunties do it the best and we can never replicate it the way they do. We’re influenced by our American side as well as we are first generation. I do love that Taiwanese dining involves lots of interaction and trying a bunch of stuff, even in the morning with a breakfast spread, which is very enjoyable for me. That has definitely influenced the way we eat at the restaurant too. There is bigger stuff on the menu, but a lot of it is small bites.
For those who haven’t tried Taiwanese food, tell us what to expect.
The cuisine is a mixture of Japanese and Chinese influences. We have a lot of pork, lots of chicken, no beef, which I think is due to its geography–it’s an island and raising beef takes a lot of space. As a country that isn’t super wealthy, they are very nose-to-tail because they have to be. Taiwanese people are super resourceful and will eat the stomach, the intestines, pig ears, and use the bones for broth. On my last trip to Tainan, there was a street stand selling pig heart soup which was very popular.
We would love to hear more about Tainan and its current food scene.
Tainan is one of the oldest cities in the country—it used to be the capital city. A lot of the buildings are very old and rustic looking with a bunch of narrow alleyways. What’s exciting is a lot of young creatives have come in and revamped a lot of the buildings. From the outside, a lot of the buildings will look the same, but inside they’ve been renovated into really cool restaurants, boutiques and vintage stores. Taipei is way denser and more chaotic with a lot more tourist traps, whereas Tainan feels more local and accessible. It’s always been a good food city (in fact, many say it is the food capital of Taiwan). What’s best is that you can wander around and stumble upon a lot of things that can’t be found on an online search and that’s where the magic is.
Where should we eat in Tainan?
Japanese Restaurant - run by a husband and wife duo in a tiny restaurant serving sushi bowls and small bar snacks.
Pig Heart roadside stand - this is the place that serves the pig heart soup. Most stands will be on that same street. If you see a line and are feeling adventurous, go for it! There's a little stall along this road that sells fresh-cut Guava with Plum//Licorice Powder. I went to get a bag every day I was there. He opens up at 3pm.
Chun - this is a great afternoon tea spot known for matcha and barley desserts!
Klin Tainan Baozi - famous steamed bun spot that was so delicious. They steam it for you on the spot.
Fried Chicken cart - we LOVED this cart. It’s the most crispy and juicy chicken I’ve ever had. They fry up a huge pounded piece of chicken and serve it in a bag. I still think about it now.
Ding Fu Fa - My favorite breakfast spread. This place is known for its seasoned rice with eggs your way (fried, sunny side, raw yolk) and then you order a bunch of sides to go with them.
Taiwanese breakfast spread, courtesy of Jolyn.
Anything else we need to know about Taiwanese food culture?
In Taiwan, they don’t have a coffee culture, so it’s really hard to find coffee in the morning! The culture is more afternoon tea which I love. We hang out with our families, have lunch and then go for afternoon tea which you’ll have with a dessert like cake or jelly.
Taiwan is also known for its night markets. Every town will have one (the smaller towns will be once a week but bigger places will likely have them every night). People come out to have fun and socialize. The markets will also be very specific to the town that you’re in, so in the Tainan night market, you will find specific regional meals that you won’t be able to find anywhere else in the country.
Where else should we visit when we’re in Tainan?
Shop: Hayashi Department Store. It’s a really old and gorgeous building that sells things made in Taiwan from snacks, to clothes, to household items.
Shop: Vintage clothing in Tainan’s alleyways. Furugi and 11 Vintage Goods are two of my faves.
Stay: U.I.J Hotel and Hostel. It’s super centrally located and really well-designed.
Drink: Bar Home. A ‘World’s 50 Best’ cocktail bar we went to that was nice to experience.
Japanese Restaurant. Courtesy of Jolyn.
